THE LONG ROUTE TO SABARIMALAI

Our nation is a land of many temples--big and small, ancient and new, prosperous and penurious, well-maintained and neglected. A temple is a place of worship with some unique features and spiritual significance.

One such temple is SABARIMALAI. The temple is designed to indicate to the devotees, the path that man has to follow to evolve him spiritually, so as to reach the ultimate goal of self-realisation. The location of this temple, its plan of construction and elevation all these have specific significance. Sabarimalai is located on top of a hill, confined to a height; access to it is not very easy, generally meant to highlight the fact that spiritualism is something that is well above mundane and earthly aspects of life, that one has to go through a fairly difficult and strenuous path to attain that level of spirituality.

Reclaiming Kerala from the sea, sage Parasurama installed Devi in shrines along the west coast and Sastha in 18 shrines on the hills on the east for protection of this “God’s own land”. The statuette was installed in Sabarimalai by sage Parasurama. Rishi Agasthya directed the construction of this shrine and the conduct of poojas there. Lord Dharmasastha has said that the sanctity of the Sabari hills would be same as Varanasi and the near by holy Pamba river would equal mother Ganges in sanctity. KUMBALAM THODU is a small stream near the Sabari hill through which courses the water offered for abhishekam to Dharmasastha at Kantha malai. A dip in the water of Pamba and Kumbalam Thodu is believed to purify one of all sins.

To go through the long route to Sabarimalai, one has to reach ERUMELI which is about 26 miles from Kottayam. The majority of pilgrims going to Sabarimalai touch Erumeli before proceeding to the destination. At KOTTAPPADI (gateway) there is a Mahaganapathy temple. To the west of it is installed Vavar--Sastha’s lieutenant, on the western side of the stream coursing through Erumeli. Sastha is installed as a KIRADHA (hunter). Most of the pilgrims going to Sabarimalai go to Erumeli where they obtain the permission of Ganapathy at Kottappadi to trek their track, pay their respects to Vavar, and make offerings at the mosque and surrender themselves at the feet of Kiradha Sastha. The pilgrims come out dressed as a hunter applying coloured powders on the body, carrying arrows and dance there. This is called Pettai Thullal.

The distance from Erumeli to Sabarimalai is said to be 41 miles. Sabarimalai is on the Western Ghats 4000 ft above sea level. Four miles to the south-east of Sabarimalai is the confluence of the rivers Kallar and Pamba. This place is called “Triveni” as Kallar is regarded as Yamuna, Pamba as Ganges and Saraswathi is believed to join the flow from underneath, even as at Prayag in Allahabad. 

Four miles east of Triveni, is a place on the bank of the river Pamba called CHALAKKAYAM. A good tar road, fit for all vehicular traffic joins Chalakkayam and Triveni. Many people go to Sabarimalai via Chalakkayam. Fourteen miles north-west of Sabarimalai is the Mount estate. Crossing the estate we come to VANDIPERIYAR, which is on the Kottayam-Kumili road. Many pilgrims go to Sabarimalai by this route also. Besides the three routes mentioned above, THALAPARAI route and PATHANAMTHITTA route are also used. The PONNAMBALAMEDU route and the DAM SITE route are seldom used. The forest track from Acchankoil to Sabarimala is not used.

The first mentioned long route from Erumeli to Sabarimala is the traditional route. This was the route by which the Lord, as per the story, went for leopard’s milk for the cure of his foster mother. Through this route when Lord went he was met by the bhoothaganams which turned into leopards. Indira turned into a tiger for Lord to ride on his back to PANDALAM. This was the route by which king Rajashekara went to the spot pointed out to him by the Lord’s arrow for construction of the shrine.

  

The pilgrims trekking the long route have to cross seven streams, and climb 18 hills in the course of covering the distance. The first stream they have to cross is PERAITHODU two miles east of Erumeli through a bridge that has been thrown across.  On the western side of the stream there is an old elephant cage called ANAKOTTIL. Many pilgrims stay one night at Anakottil before proceeding further. The first hill the pilgrims have to climb is the PERAIKUNNU--going up 800 ft and climb down 500 ft on the other side to reach the foot of the hill. As we see here, in all the eighteen hills the ascent is more than the descent on the opposite side. Thus each hill represents a step. Each hill top is called a “fort”. Each fort is guarded by an “Amnaya Devata” of the Lord and is fit for the pilgrims’ camping during night halt en route.

The pilgrims trekking the route are said to be in the safe custody of Devi and Bhoothanatha. From Erumeli to top of the Azhutha hill, Devi is said to be safe guarding the pilgrims. From there to the top of Karimalai, Bhoothanatha is said to be safe guarding the pilgrims. From there to Pamba, Devi is again said to take charge. And from Pamba to Sabarimalai, Bhoothanatha is said to take charge again.

A trek of the long route helps to cure diseases like rheumatism, phlegm and piles. From Peraithodu to Azhutha hills, all the flora on either side make the atmosphere charged with medicine. As you breathe more than usual when you climb, the medicine-charged air enters your lungs, which cures. So it will be good, if you spend one night in this atmosphere. A 12-mile walk from Erumeli to Azhutha, and a dip in the Azhutha River which flows a long distance over a bed of karim-kurinji will relieve you of all aches and pains. From Azhutha hills to Karimalai all flora consisting of gooseberries etc are curatives of phlegm troubles. A night stay in this atmosphere is also desirable. From Karimalai to Sabarimalai, all floras consisting of rudraksham, badraksham, akil, sandal etc are curatives of pile troubles. Water you get here flows over beds of iron. In this medicated atmosphere the pilgrims stay at Pamba and Sabarimalai.

After crossing Peraikunnu, you come to a place called ARIYAKUDI. Eight miles away from Peraithodu is Kalaketti ashram. Two miles from it is the Alasa River now called AZHUTHA. As the story has it, the Lord went to devaloka in the month of Meenam (Panguni), caught the demoness Mahishi by her horns and threw her down. She was said to have fallen on the eastern side of the river. To witness this Mahishi Mardhanam, Lord Shiva along with Parvathi came riding on the bull and tethered it to a tree here. Thus the name Kala Ketti came into use. Pilgrims who have haunts of evil spirits offer coconut and camphor here for their relief. The pilgrims have a dip in this river. Many pilgrims have a night halt on either side of the river.

While immersing in the water of Azhutha, each one is asked to take a small pebble and keep it with them. Fording cross the river, the pilgrim starts climbing the Azhutha Medu. At the corner of the left curve, is a big flat rock that is said to be the kallidunkunnu. The pilgrims are asked to deposit the pebble they picked up from the river in this kunnu. It is believed that they are putting them to inter (bury) the body of Mahishi. Climbing up the Azhutha Medu, the pilgrims reach the place called Udumparakotta where Bhoothanatha is the presiding deity. Moving further, the pilgrim reaches the southern end of the plateau called Injiparakotta where the presiding deity is Devi.  The pilgrim descends from the hill to reach Mukkuzhi. Many pilgrims have a night halt here.

There is another route though a little longer from Azhutha to Mukkuzhi on the northern side. The pilgrims going by this route can avoid climbing up and down the Azhutha Medu, though they have to walk a little longer. From Mukkuzhi, they come to Elavanthavalam, where they can have a halt and then go to Pudhucheri and Karivalanthodu. Leaving Karivalanthodu, the pilgrims proceed to the foot of Karimalai. Ascending Karimalai the pilgrims camp on its top. Here there is a perennial spring believed to be the result of the thrust of Lord’s arrow into the ground to find water for his followers. At the foot of Karimalai on the other side, is the sacred river Pamba. The pilgrims halt in Chiriyanavattam or Veliyanavattam. Pilgrims have a halt for a day or two. They take dip in the river Pamba, absolve themselves of all sins, and do poojas and bhajans there. They also do religious rites to the departed souls of their ancestors. They do annadhanam and give away clothes and money.

The pilgrims have a darshan of Pamba Ganapathy. Then they proceed to the Sabari hills with vibhuthi, sandal paste and kumkum on their forehead. At every stage of trek, the rear half of the pilgrim’s irumudi gets smaller and smaller. By the time he reaches the Sabari hills, the rear half completely empties--symbolizing that his prarabdha karmas are over.

Leaving Pamba, the pilgrim climbs up the Neeli Malai, climbs Appachi Medu, walks past Sabari Peetam, crosses Saranguthi where the Lord Bhoothanatha’s arrow struck a pipal tree to show king Rajashekara the spot for his shrine, and reaches THE SANNIDHANAM. He climbs the holy 18 steps, gets over the 18 thatvas and reaches his destination--the Lord’s abode. At the entrance, the pilgrim sees a homakundam in which camphor is burnt in quintals. Pilgrims put camphor in the kundam prays that as camphor burns and merges in Brahmam leaving no residue, nothing of his prarabdham should be left over.

The ghee-filled coconut is broke open, the ghee taken out and offered for abhishekam. This abhishekam symbolizes the merge of the Jeevathma in the Paramathma, which is indicated by the Lord’s “chinmudra” on His right hand. The pointing finger is the Jeevathma and the thumb is the Paramathma. The broken coconut is then put in the Ganapathi kundam and burnt. Then the pilgrim makes all other offerings to the Lord, his Sakthi Manjamatha and to all his lieutenants. On reaching home, the pilgrim unties the irumudi which contains only the prasadam and distributes it to all.

Thus, the pilgrimage to Sabarimala is the external expression of the internal process.

Throughout the route, pilgrims are provided facilities like boiled and spiced water, medical aids and other necessary help by the AKHILA BHARATHA AYYAPPA SEVA SANGAM and also the DEVASVOM BOARD. These services are to be hailed. All pilgrims are requested to keep the surroundings of the Sannidhanam and the route to it, clean and green for their own well-being and the well-being of the fellow pilgrims.

Courtesy: Sastha Mahathmiyam

SWAMIYE SARANAM AYYAPPA

PILGRIMAGE TO SRINGERI--contd

                                                                                              

Each visit to Sringeri has been memorable and enjoyable. With the continuation of my trip to Sringeri, I wanted to share with you all some information about the matham and HH Jagadguru. With this small effort if I can inspire even one of you to go to Sringeri, I would be consider myself blessed.

There is a version in Guru Geetha, that guru alone is the entire universe. Guru is Brahma, Vishnu and shiva combined together in one form. There is nothing greater than guru. So let us completely surrender ourselves in his lotus feet to achieve high level of devotion. God will take care of us if we have pure devotion and belief on guru.

The idol of Sri Sarada Devi which is worshipped in the temple was originally made of sandalwood. Sri Sri Vidyaranya, the 12^th Acharya renovated this temple in 14^th century and installed the present image of Sarada Devi in gold. The tiled roof existed till 1907, when the 33^rd Acharya Sri Sri Sachidananda Sivabhinava Narasimha Baharathi Swamigal decided to have a more substantial building erected in that place. The work he began was finished by his successor HH Sri Chandrasekara Bharathi(IV) Swamigal who performed the kumbabhishekam in 1916. The main hall of this temple has twelve pillars on which are marked the two signs of Zodiac. The rays of the sun fall on them in the order of solar month, i.e. only on the particular pillar on each month of the year.

The matham compound is studded with large number of other temples.  Adi Sankara temple is located in the quadrangle of the old matham building. The smaller temples are mostly the samadhis of the previous acharyas in which lingas have been installed and being worshipped.

We see a newly built suspension bridge to cross the Tunga River and we reach Narasimha Vana--now a habitable garden of the abode of the Acharya. It is here the present HH Jagadguru Bharathi Theertha maha swamigal gives darshan to the devotees and perform pooja of Sri Chandramouleeshwara with the Vedic chanting of pundits. The Adishtanams of the previous Acharyas Sri Sri Sachidananda Sivabhinava Narasimha Bharathi and Abhinava Vidyatheertha Mahaswamigal are also situated here.

When Adi Sankara established his mutt at Sringeri, he first built four guardian temples on the surrounding hillocks which were to protect the village from danger, destruction and forces of evil. On the east he built a temple for Kalabhairava, on the west for Anjaneya, on the south for Durga and on the north for Kali. Poojas are still continued in those temples.

There are two cars (rathams)—one silver and one gold in which divine mother Sharadambal is taken procession on every Friday night round the temple accompanied by Vedic chanting and instrumental music as per traditional customs.

Navarathri is the most important festival in Sringeri. Special poojas and archanas are offered to Sri Sharadambal in the temple for nine days. A ceremonial procession takes place everyday. HH performs sahasranama pooja to devi everyday and sits in the durbar in the traditional king’s attire following the tradition started by Sri Vidyaranyar. Apart from this, festivals like Sri Sankara Jayanthi, Vardanthi day, Varalaksmi vritam, karthika somavara vritam, Krishna janmashtami, rama navami and so many are celebrated in Sringeri.

With the blessings of HH Mahaswamiji, the MAHAKUMBHABHISHEKAM of the newly built Sharadamba shrine was conducted in Toronto, Canada on June 20, 2010. About 5000 devotees not only from Canada but also from the USA, India and Singapore gathered there to witness the occasion.

Sringeri attracts devotees all through the year from all corners of the globe. Its favourable climate, the enchanting greenery, the cool waters of Tunga, the facilities for boarding and lodging, the annadanam on all 365 days in the matham and above all the grace of HH Jagadguru are the reasons for this.

There is a temple dedicated to Rishyasringa and Santa at Kigga, around 9 kms from Sringeri. The Sivalinga consecrated in the sanctum has a horn on the head, depicting Rishyasringa Rishi.

In the midst of Western Ghats, surrounded by greenery Goddess Annapoorneshwari makes Horanadu her home. The name of the goddess means “Feeding one & all”, like the ever giving & loving mother. The specialty of this temple is that everybody who visit this shrine are provided with food & place to sleep or rest.

Eight km from Horanadu, surrounded by Bhadra River on three sides, holy place Kalasa has the shape of a pot. On the fourth side we have at the base of a hill the great Kalasheshwara temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

The Sringeri Mutt can be contacted at the following address:

The Administrator,
Sringeri Mutt and its Properties,
Sringeri, Chickmagalur District,
Karnataka, PIN - 577139.

Phone Numbers: 08265-250123/08265-250594/08265-250192

The Sringeri Sharada Peetam has had a continuing line of succession of Acharyas. They have been men of great erudition, spiritual attainment and compassion. Each one of them has added to the luster of the Peetham.

Each one of us, just like we take time to pray amidst all our routine, should make a pilgrimage to Sringeri at least once in a while to get the blessings of our Jagadguru.

PILGRIMAGE TO SRINGERI

Pilgrimage to any place is purposeful and successful only if the pilgrim goes to that place with full faith and devotion.

This year as we planned to go to Sringeri, we decided to go to certain new places of devotional interest. Though adventure was not our main motive, lord god guided us to do all these and we did it.

We got down at a place called Kundapura which is 36km away from Udipi, Karnataka. First we visited a temple called SANKARANARAYANA which is about 32km from Kundapura. It is traditionally called “Kroda Kshetra” as mentioned in “Skanda Purana”. We can find two lingas under water which they say are swayambhoo—depicting Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva inside the sanctum sanctorum. But they have kept two silver clad idols of both these lingas for the darshan of the pilgrims. The priest there showed us the mirror reflection of both the lingas which are underwater.

KAMALASHILE is the place situated 35km from Kundapura on the banks of the river Kubja. The deity there is Brahmi Durgaparameshwari in the form of a linga. It is said to be the convergence of goddess Maha Kali, Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswathi. Surrounded by mountains and evergreen forests, this temple is very calm and quiet. Free food is offered to all the pilgrims who come there.

Just a few minutes’ walk from this temple is ADISTALA GUHALAYA—a place worth visiting. As the name suggests it is a cave. We had to walk almost 100 ft inside the cave downwards—not so steep, but slippery. One person by the name Ragavendra led us inside the cave with torch lights as there is no electricity inside. After walking for some time, we had the darshan of Lord Shiva and small lingas depicting Durga, Lakshmi and Saraswathi. The only sound we could hear apart from our voice is the sound of the water coming out of a spring. It is said that this water flows up to river Ganges. We drank this holy water and sprinkled it on ourselves.  Mr. Ragavendra can be contacted on 09880386458.

Nature has gifted us with another place called GUHANTHARA TEMPLE about 15km from Kamalashile. Though a very interesting place, the journey was very tedious. This place is situated on Western Ghats. So we can travel only by jeep or motorbike. We took a jeep and went there to have darshan of Lord Kesavanatheswara. This place is called Moodgallu. The priest of this temple is Shri. Ragavendra (09164730511) and he took us inside the cave temple. The specialty of this cave temple is that we have to stand in knee-level water to offer prayers. We were astonished to see fishes swimming near the feet of lord, as though they are conveying the message of God that we would be freed from all worries once we offer prayers here. The linga can be seen on a platform approximately at a distance of 75 ft from the entrance. No illumination except the lamp lit for GOD. In the evening it is said that the golden rays of sun falls on the Shiva linga reflected by the water which gives pleasure to the believers as though the sun is offering his prayers before bidding farewell after his duties for the day.

Next day early morning we left Kundapura for Sringeri, visiting so many pilgrimage centres on the way.

The first place we went was ANAGUDDE where we had good darshan of lord Vinayaka. It is located 5km from Kundapura. This temple is the oldest and the most popular in this region. This Ganesh temple is situated on a small hillock.

The next is the GUDDATTU VINAYAKA TEMPLE situated 15 km from Kundapura which dates back to more than 1700 years. The natural rock formation similar to Ganesh idol is inside a small cave and the natural formation of the cave is such that 3000 koda of water collects naturally and submerges the Ganesh idol. It is said that the 3ft idol of the lord emerged by itself. The black and grey structure is in the sitting position, his trunk towards the right, eyes and legs clearly visible. The idol can be seen through a hole.

The next place we visited is the SRI SIDDIVINAYAKA TEMPLE; HATTIANGADI situated 14km from Kundapura. The idol of Sri Siddivinayaka is 2.5 ft high and is carved of a Saligrama stone. 

Then we visited NAGACHALA AYYAPPA a well maintained temple dedicated to lord Ayyappa in Kumbhashi, in Kundapura Taluk. Here there are 18 holy steps which is closed on other days but opened to devotees during Mandala and Makara Jyothi time. Those who carry Irumudi can only climb these 18 steps.  Otherwise on normal days anybody can go and worship through the other way as the 18 steps would be kept closed.

Then we went to SHREE SKHETRAM SAKATAPURAM. Adi Sankaracharya established Jyothishapeeta in the Badarikashrama of north India. His disciple Shri Thotakacharya was made the prime preceptor.  In the year 1330 when Shri Sathyatheertha Mahamuni took over as the preceptor of this Jyothishapeeta, he travelled southwards and reached the banks of the river Tunga in Karnataka. While having dip in the river his “holy dhandam” got stuck in between the rocks inside the river. When he tried to pull it out from the river, along with the dhandam came out the idol of Shri Santanavenugopala. Swamiji established a Srimadam in the place where he got the idol on the bank of this river Tunga. It is about 28 km from Sringeri. Maharishi Vamadeva along with his wife did Surya Yaga here in this place. As a result, they were blessed with a son and they named him Sumedharunan. When Sumedharunan grew up, he did penance seeking the blessings of Lord Brahma. Lord appeared and as a boon Sumedharunan asked that this place should strive for the welfare of mankind. God gave the boon and along with that gave a small cart fitted with wheels to him. People started calling him Sakatamaharishi, and thus the name Shrikshetra Sakatapuram came into being.

The 32^nd Peetathipathi of this madam was Shri Ramachandranandha Theertha Sripadar. He was a scholar and man of extreme knowledge and he strived for the propagation of Sanathana Dharma. He has installed a madam in East Tambaram, Chennai. The present pontiff and the 33^rd Peetathipathi is Shri Vidhyabhinava Srikrishnananda Theertha Swamiji. He has mastered the highly esoteric ShriVidhyopasana with all its aspects after Rahoyaaga. He has won respect and regard as a staunch “ShriVidhyopasaka—ShriVidhyaTaponidhi. Devotees accept him as ShriVidhya personified. For the devotees who have not this Swamiji, his photograph is given above.

The Srimadam is undergoing expansion and renovation under the guidance of its guru. Rathotsava on akshaya thrithiya day, Sankara jayanthi and navarathri are some of the important festivals of Shrikshetra Shakatapuram. Here facilities are available for boarding and lodging for the pilgrims. We invoked the blessings of lord SanthanaVenugopalakrishna, whose beauty is still in front of our eyes. Also there are shrines for Lord Lakshminrusimhar, and Shrividhya Rajarajeshwari.

All devotees are requested to visit Shri VidyaPeetam, Sakatapuram and get the blessings of Shri Jagadguru Badari Shankaracharya, Shri Krishnananda Teertha Mahaswamigal and also Shri Rajarajeshwari, Shri lakshmiNrusimha and Shri Santana Venugopalakrishna.

Contended with the darshan we proceeded to Sringeri to do Bhikshavandhanam to the Jagadguru.  

Sringeri is a small town on the banks of river Tungabhadra. Discovered by Sri Adi Sankaracharya as a place where even natural animosity did not exist as he saw a frog in labour being protected from the scorching rays of the sun by the raised hood of a cobra. He installed in that place the goddess of learning—Shri Sharada. Sringeri is the modern rendering of Sringa giri or the mountain of Rishya Sringa, a great rishi whose tomb is still preserved.

Shri Sankaracharya established a mutt for the propagation of Advaitha philosophy and his first disciple Shri Sureshwaracharya was made the head of Shri Dakshinamnaya Shri Sharada Peetam at Sringeri. This has become the famous centre of learning, philosophy and spirituality. There has been an unbroken succession of Jagadgurus adorning this throne of transcendental wisdom and the ruling pontiff His Holiness Jagadguru Bharathi Thirtha Mahaswamiji is the 36^th Guru who is adorning the throne since 1989. Since the days of Adi Sankaracharya, the acharyas have used for daily worship a spatika linga of Lord Chandramouleeshwara and a murthi of Ratnagarba ganapathi carved out of a small block of crystal with a ruby in the middle. It is awe-inspiring to see the acharya worshipping the linga and murthi with great care and devotion.

Who is a Guru? He is indeed Shiva. It is Shiva who has taken the form of guru. The disciple should perceive absolutely no difference between the Guru and the God. Obedience of the sishya does not merely mean the traditional namaskaram. It refers to the complete surrender of body, mind and speech. Let us surrender our ego completely at our guru’s feet and plead him to show us the right way. May the guru bless us such that we do not stray away from the path of dharma in this terrible kaliyuga.

 The name “Sankara” means one who does good things. Shiva has incarnated as “Adisankara”. Adisankara at his young age travelled all over the length and breadth of this vast subcontinent four times and established four principal monasteries at four cardinal points of India and appointed four chief disciples as pontiff of these mutts to promote the spiritual well being of monks and also assigned one Veda to each mutt. Rig Veda went to “Govardhan Mutt” at Puri. Yajurveda to Sringeri Mutt, Samaveda to Sharada mutt at Dwaraka and Atharvana Veda to Jyothishi mutt at Badrinath. All of us know that Adi Sankara was born at Kalady in Kerala in the year 788 AD and in a short span of 32 years did so much to Hinduism. The birth place of Shri Adisankara was rediscovered by the 33^rd Jagadguru HH Shri. Sachidananda Sivabhinava Narasimha Bharati of Sringeri peetam in the year 1912 and we had the centenary celebrations at the Adisankara Janmabhoomi—Kalady in May this year in the auspices of the 36^th guru His Holiness Jagadguru Bharathi Theertha Mahaswamiji.

His Holiness is known for his great spiritual eminence and unmatched scholarliness in the Vedas and sastras. He is an ocean of compassion and we are left with no words to explain the experience of joy—the ecstasy in his presence. Interactions with him have benefitted thousands of devotees. His deeds become beacon lights that guide devotees on the righteous path. The words of His Holiness never fail to help the devotee tide over his troubles.

What is Chaturmasya Vrata? The term Chaturmasya means four months. The term Chaturmasya Vrata is a vrata to be observed for a period of four months. But according to the Vedic dictum one ‘paksha’ or a fortnight is taken as one month, and traditionally the Vrata is observed only for two months. During the rainy season, Sannyasins observe Chaturmasya and stay at one place to meditate on the Absolute Reality and instruct their disciples in the spiritual lore. Before observing the Chaturmasya Sankalpa, they perform Vyasa Puja and pay homage to Dakshinamurti, Sadasiva, to the great seers of the parampara and to the preceptors. 

It is said that Sannyasins must be moving from place to place, to avoid getting entangled with the dealings and habits of the people of the village or town. But during the rainy season, they must halt at one place for a period of four months and observe the Chaturmasya Vrata. If, during the rainy season, the Sannyasins move from one place to another, they may cause injury to many insects and worms that breed and move about on the ground during the season. But as the Sannyasins have taken the vow of non-injury to all creatures (Ahimsa and Abhaya), they should refrain from causing harm to any living being. Moreover, constant travel will also come in the way of Sannyasins having any time for continued profound meditation. So, they halt at one place once in a year for four months and engage themselves in the meditation of the Supreme Brahman.

As thousands of devotees throng Sringeri every year to have darshan of His Holiness, many arrangements have been made for the boarding and lodging of the devotees. The matt provides food and accommodation for all.

While I was in Chennai, we started an organization called the Sarada samithi, Villivakkam in the year 1996 to offer our Bhikshavandanam every year to Sringeri guru. With the help of 135 members we have been doing this for the past 14 years. This being the 15^th year, we performed Bhikshavandanam on the 5^th of September in a grand scale.

We wish that all the devotees visit Sringeri, have darshan and invoke the blessings of Jagadguru!!

CHATURAGIRI—THE ABODE OF SIDDHARS

                   

Siddhars are saints in India, mostly of the Saivaite denomination in Tamil Nadu, who professed and practiced an unorthodox type of Sadhana, or spiritual practice, to attain liberation. Due to their yogic powers, their deeds---past and present---are much beyond belief. They have also conquered time and are said to be living for more than 3000 years. Also they do miracles like transforming iron to gold, leaving one’s body and entering into another, flying in the air like human airplanes from one place to another and they also control the planetary motions. Miracles against the nature are also one of the distinct activities of these siddhars. They are believed to have taken birth to relieve mankind from ignorance and unite him with the Almighty. Sage Agasthiyar is believed to the forerunner of all the siddhars.

This holy place Chaturagiri is situated in Tamilnadu near Srivilliputtur—Madurai highway at a place called Vathra iruppu. Thaniparai, which is situated 9 kms from here, is the foot of chaturagiri. It is believed that during Ramayana, while hanuman carried Sanjeevi hill for the cure of Lakshmana, a portion of that hill fell down here and this piece is what we see as chaturagiri. Around the temple in this hill, there are four mountains on each side in the form of a square. That is why the name chaturagiri (chaturam means square in Tamil).

Chaturagiri is a holy place where siddhars are believed to live even now. It is believed that going to this place, relieves one of all sorrows and physical ailments and gives peace of mind. Bathing in this hill and having darshan of the three main deities—three forms of lord Shiva—called as Sundaralingam, Mahalingam, Chanthanalingam makes new blood flow in our body.

Chaturagiri is situated in Western Ghats, about 4500 ft above sea level. We started the trekking from Thaniparai and only after about 10 kms of trekking we reach these temples. At the foot of the hill there is a small river. We take a holy dip and worship “Asirvada Vinayagar” and “Karuppaswamy” and start with the trek. The first place to take rest is the “Kudurai Kuthi” where there is a small stream. Proceeding from here we reached “Vazhukku Parai”. As the name suggests it is a very slippery place in a very slanting position. For the convenience of the devotees a chain is installed across the stream for us to hold and cross. There are two caves in this slope—believed to the meditating places of “Pambatti siddhar” and “Kalangi Nathar”. After trekking for a while we reach the place called “Athi oothu”. This oothu (a small stream in tamil) is believed to be coming through the cave where sage “atri” was doing penance. There is athi tree (country fig) with fruits. During the season of these fruits monkeys and bears come here to taste them. Since water is also present, elephants also come here. Devotees are asked to move carefully. Now the steep climbing starts from here. We can see two hairpin bends and some caves. This place is called “kona thalai vasal”. Some devotees have also had the darshan of some siddhars here in these caves. Some of these caves are so chill inside as if they are fitted with air conditioners. Siddhars namely THIRUMOOLAR, AGASTHIAR, BOGAR, KAGABUJANDAR, GORAKKAR are believed to be here even now. 

After climbing for some distance, the next resting place is near the “Gorakkar Guhai”. This Gorakkar guhai is situated 20ft down from the trekking path where there is a cave like gap between the rocks and there is a small stream in front of this cave. This water is so pure, and is believed to give you salvation as told by “Kalangi Natha Siddhar”. We went creeping inside this cave and lighted a lamp there. Came out and did meditation for some time here. The next destination is called “Arisi Parai” where the sand looks like rice (arisi). Trekking from here we reach “Irattai lingam”. Going further we reach an open place called “Pasukkidai” where the shepherds put a fence around their cows and bulls after grazing and keep a watch on them. After crossing this Pasukkidai we reach the boundary of the temple. Here for most of the devotees a dog (believed to be lord Bhairavar) comes and takes them to the temple. Same way when we come back the dog comes and leaves us here. Near this boundary when we go 10 ft down there is a small waterfall which relieves us of all the exertion we had while climbing. We accompanied the dog up the temple called “Pilavadi Karuppar” located beneath two jackfruit trees. The deity is Karuppaswamy holding a sword in his hand. A guide who accompanied us told that the rock in front of this temple is actually the lid of the well of gold produced by the siddhars. This is called “Rasayana Kinaru”.

From here we move towards our main destination of the three temples. First is the “Sundara Mahalingam temple”.  This lingam was originally worshipped by sage Agastiyar. But when he had to leave for Podhigai hills, sage Sundarananda took over the worship from Agasthiyar. So the lingam is called “Sundaralingam”.

Sringeri Swamigal—when he came to Vatra Iruppu on the request of his devotee saw a light from the top of this Chaturagiri hills. Swamiji after enquiring about Mahalingam temple here, decided to trek and he did it with so much of ease followed by his disciples. There he performed his regular pujas in front of Sundaramahalingam. He walked alone up to Chandanamahalingam temple and was seen climbing down the other side of the hill and was seen sitting on a rock and doing meditation by one of the devotee who was asked by the Swamiji to accompany him. The devotee also saw Swamiji talking to some siddhar.

     

Sringeri Swamigal—our Swamiji was blessed by the siddhar, who is not visible to the eyes of normal people. We are fortunate to have such Mahapurushas amidst us.

Now we proceed further above to see the “Mahalingam”. The story goes like this. One of the demons of lord Shiva “Yaazvalla Thevar” fell in love with the aide of devi Parvathi called “Deivanangai”. Realizing this lord shiva sent them to the boolokam in the form of human beings. Yaaz valla thevar was born as “Pacchaimaal” and Deivanangai was born as “Sadainangai”. Both got married and were living in a place called Kottaiyoor at the foot of this chaturagiri hills. When the time came for Pacchaimaal to return to Kailash after the curse, lord Shiva himself came to this hill in the form of a saint and drank the milk from the cow directly which was intended for the lord’s Abhishekam. When Pacchaimaal noticed this, in a fit of anger he took a wooden stick and gave a blow on his head.

When Sundaranandar came and saw this wounded saint, they saw lord shiva himself on the rishaba. Lord told them that he has come in person to take back his own Yaazvalla thevar with him to Kailash. Then everybody prayed to lord that he stay here and bless all those who come here to which lord agreed and stayed here as “Mahalingam”. Because of the blow from Pacchaimaal, we can see the lingam tilted to about 30 degrees to his left. We can also see the cut on the head of the lingam. We performed abhishekam for the deity and felt blessed.

Devi Parvathi came here and made a lingam beneath a sandalwood tree and did penance to fulfill her wish that she does not want to be separated from lord shiva. This lingam is called the Chandanamahalingam”. There is a sannadhi for Parvathi who resides here in the name of “Aanandavalli Amman”. Adjacent to this there is a cave called “Sattanadar Guhai”.  It is believed that even now this siddhar is doing penance here.

On the southern side, 1km above the Mahalingam temple is the “Thavasi Guhai”. As we reached Mahalingam temple about one mile away from this guhai at about 18.30 hours, some bright stars were seen above this cave, and three bright lights in front of it. It is believed that one who is destined by the lord can only go inside this cave.

We stayed in the annadhana mandapam in the hills. It is known as “kanji madam”. We were given food and shelter for the night. As such there is no electricity above the hills. There is only one generator to give light. Even this is switched off by 19.30hrs. Then it is only dark everywhere. If at all we want we have to use a torch. The climate is always chill and we all went to sleep.

There are no built in bathrooms and toilets above the hills. Next day morning after having a wash we went to the temple again and started climbing down. As refreshments we get only “sukku coffee” and dosai. It took 4 and a half  hours for us to climb down. As I told earlier the dog came again to leave us till the Pilavadi Karuppar temple

  

It is believed that there are hundreds of such caves in Chaturagiri. We could see only a portion of if. It is not advisable for human beings to go beyond this place. It is believed that siddhars meet together every now and then for the welfare of humanity. Siddhars are believed to take any form. So, devotees are instructed that they don’t harm any living being there. Siddhars can take the form of ant, serpent or even bear and come there. So it is requested not to spoil the ecology of this hill. Without knowing the exact route, without a guide and without proper information about the sanctity of the place, trekking to Chaturagiri is not advisable. It is our duty to thank god and the siddhars there, once we get down the hill. So many untold mysteries prevail about Chaturagiri, what we know is only a drop of the ocean. So many miracles have happened in Chaturagiri.

Navrathri is celebrated here with pomp and splendour for 9 days. The native women of the forest come here to perform dance and do puja during these days. During this period lot of devotees from in and around the area visit this place. Similarly, devotees come here during amavasai and pournami.

There are so many herbs in this hill, which are so useful to mankind. This hill comes under the forest department. The MAIN point to be had in mind before planning a trip to Chaturagiri is one should go only with the sole intention of having darshan of the lord. Any bad intentions otherwise would be PUNISHED then and there suitably. This is not a story but many have experienced it. Devotees who go with a calm mind and take lord’s name definitely have the fruit of it.

There are coolies on this hill, who offer to help us to carry our heavy luggage in return for money. Doli facility is also available but only with prior information. Information to be given to the following persons:

Attiriman—93677 62803; Orusol—97893 08182; Kootamalai—97864 89483

Ramesh—97869 22926.

For further information contact:

Kasiviswanathan—virudhunagar--Mobile no: 94431 79891.

All the information given above is written only with the blessings of the siddhars who are living even now. Nothing is written on our own.

              LET LORD MAHALINGAM BLESS US ALL!

                OM NAMASIVAYA SIVAYANAMA OM!!

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF SABARIMALA YATRA

Out of all God’s creations, human beings are the blessed ones in this materialistic world. In that birth without being handicap physically or mentally is a very great boon. I pray to all to utilize this birth by being pure at heart and noble by deed and thank the Almighty for giving this wonderful body and soul. Let us all pray Him for His blessings only.

We should always remember about the bubble like nature of our life. So let us think of him always and do our duties. In this passage I have tried to pass on the message parted by all the great Acharyas and Guruswamis about the Sabarimala Yatra. I have tried to consolidate almost everything and tell you about the dos and don’ts to be followed during VRATHA days—like Mudra Dharanam, system to be followed during vratham, carrying irumudi during yatra, taking off mudra etc.

In good olden days, yatra to sabarimala was carried out during Makara Sankaranthi only. But now people throng the hill during Mandalam, Vishu, Panguni Uttiram, Onam, monthly poojas and prathista days etc.

Yatra to sabarimala has always been a puzzle. It is entirely different from other forms of yatra/worship. Even dress code and the total look of the pilgrim are specified during this yatra. This yatra is utmost religious and rules are to be followed strictly for the sanctity and our own prosperity.

Every year, lakhs and lakhs of devotees take up this two-month vratham, to wash off the sins done by them during the 10-month gestational period in the womb of their mother. The whole concept of mudra dharanam—i.e. wearing of the mala during the starting of vratham is:  this jeevathma is to merge with paramathma crossing the 18 thatvas (principles) of life (18 steps). To denote that this jeevathma is going through this above process, the pilgrim (jeevathma) wears the mudra to tell the world that he will indulge only in noble and spiritual activities throughout the vratham period and thereafter. The mudra that is worn by the pilgrim will keep touching the body reminding him every now and then that he is under the divine process of reaching the paramathma and so he should be very strict in all his activities.

Till the previous day of the mudra dharanam, the person is in his worldly pleasures. The moment the mudra is worn, even the wife is dedicated to see the pilgrim as Lord Ayyappa himself and do her duties towards him perfectly with all sincerity and renouncing the pleasures till the yatra is over—i.e. brahmacharyam is to be strictly followed. The pilgrim who has worn the mudra should see the girls and women with the mudra as maligaipuram i.e. as a sakthi swaroopam. This is the first significant change in the pilgrim once he adorns himself with the mudra mala.

When to wear the mudra? The first day of Vrischigam i.e. the Tamil month of Karthigai is the auspicious day for mudra dharanam. For the pilgrims who want to go during other occasions should seek the advice of a guruswami—who is experienced in this yatra about the mudra dharanam and vratham.

Who should be the guruswami? This also has been specified by the sastras. The person, who is a guruswami, should always be noble and spiritual in this thoughts and deeds. He should have done the yatra, through the long route at least for some years and well-versed with the system to be followed during the vratham and yatra. Mudra dharanam should be had from the noble hands of such guruswamis. It can also be had from the noble hands of mother, father or the family guru. For aged ladies, their husband or an elderly person can do the mudra dharanam.

Where to do the dharanam? Mudra dharanam can be done in temples, pilgrim’s residence, guruswami’s residence, or the place where Ayyappa pooja is conducted.

How to do it? The mudra mala which is to be worn has to be kept in the pooja before wearing. For that mala, the pooja should be done according to the customs and rituals mentioned in the Ayyappa pooja vidhi. Only then the mudra mala is ready for dharanam. Now before doing the mudra dharanam it is a MUST that the pilgrim should take the blessings of his/her mother, father, guruswami, Lord Mahaganapathy, Lord Ayyappa, their family deity and Lord Sakthi. Then the guruswami should adorn the mala to the pilgrim who is standing facing the lord, apply thilakam on the forehead and do karpoora aarthi for both the Lord and the pilgrim, to denote that they are going to be one and the same—ie jeevathma and paramathma. The pilgrim should then do pranamam to the guru and offer dakshina.

What to wear as mudra mala? Thulasi, rudraksham, spatikam, sandalwood or lotus beads joined together in brass, silver, or gold wires, with or without dollar is very auspicious. The number of beads should be 27, 54, 72 or 108.  An additional mala is worn nowadays along with the main one.

Pilgrims in the profession of doctors, actors, police and other professionals who feel that during the two-month long vratham the sanctity at the workplace or at home cannot be maintained, it is better to wear the mudra on the day of starting of yatra. When a close relative is on the death bed, it is better to wear it on the day of yatra.

What to avoid after wearing mudra? Avoid using meat, liquor and tobacco. Intake of onion, garlic and other masalas to be avoided. As far as possible avoid comforts to this physic like sleeping on the mattress and wearing slippers. This will help to face the trekking of sabarimala, full of stones and thorns, with ease and train our body toilet down anywhere amidst the forest and hill. Avoid taking part in the last rites of somebody and avoid visiting hospitals. It is better to avoid shaving and cutting of the hair during the vratham period.

The wearing of orange, black, or blue robes during the vratham will indicate to others that this person is going for yatra. It is a must that the pilgrim should adorn his forehead with sandal paste, vibhuti or any other symbol so that the forehead does not remain empty.

The mudra mala has to be taken off during vratha days—IF one of the close relatives die for which you have some days of restriction (pilai) or there is some child birth in the family’s close circle. If the person has to visit hospital regularly, or go out of station where you feel that the sanctity cannot be maintained it is advisable to remove the mudra mala. If you have to help during the last rites of some person due to lack of any physical help on the side of the deceased, you should not deny them stating mudra mala as the reason. In those cases, if it is unavoidable, the mala can be taken off, and the services may be done. Lord also wants us to help others in times of need.

When to wear the mudra again? If good circumstances prevail, the yatra can be done after wearing the mala again, on an auspicious day from the hands of guruswami or elders as mentioned above.

During vratham period the yearly rites (shradham or any other rituals) to parents can be done with the mudra mala.

As far as possible, the person should go on yatra with the guruswami who adorns him with the mala. But under unavoidable circumstances, with the permission of guruswami, the yatra can be performed with some other guruswami also.

Once the irumudi is placed on the head, it is customary that after breaking coconut, the person should start for the yatra, without bidding bye to the family and thinking only of god. The people at home in turn should pray for the pilgrim, his good darshan of the lord and his safe return, by performing puja to Lord Ayyappa twice daily till the pilgrim returns.

On return, the pilgrim should break a coconut again at the entrance of his house. The aarthi should be taken by the family after washing his feet. The irumudi with the prasadam now is to be placed near the puja, aarthi taken and prasadam distributed to all.

How to take off the mudra after yatra? With due respects to the mudra and chanting the mantras, the mudra should be taken off after thanking the Lord for the darshan and safe return and the mala should adorn the photograph of the Lord.

If you happen to go to other temples on the way back from yatra, any earlier prayers can be performed in those temples, but tonsuring of the head to be avoided.

The main purpose of the sabarimala yatra is to get the blessings of Lord Ayyappa. This should be done with total purity in heart and that should reflect in our deeds. Taking bath twice daily, strict dress code, mudra dharanam, deekshai (avoid shaving), and chanting of swami saranam are all steps towards God, if done with sincerity and bhakti. Brahmins are requested to perform their daily karmas without fail along with all these. Do annadhanam whenever possible.

With the help of guruswami, wear the mudra, chant Lord’s name, do good deeds, be pure at heart, extend your help and love to living beings, cross the 18 steps and have a good darshan of Lord Ayyappa. After all these, continue your service to humanity for noble cause because SERVICE TO MANKIND IS SERVICE TO GOD.

Swamiye saranam ayyappa! Annadhana prabhuve saranam ayyappa!!

PILGRIMAGE TO NEPAL

After visiting many temples in India along with my wife, this is the first time i am putting my experience on records and sharing with you all. To all viewers of this blog, wish you a happy journey!!

With chanting of Om Namo Narayanaya, Jai Siddhi Vinayaka Murthiki Jai and Jai Sairam, we all reached Ernakulam south railway station by 12.30 hrs on Friday, 27^th June, 2008 to board train no 2522 Rapthisagar express and left for Gorakhpur. A group of 42 persons male and female reached Gorakhpur by midnight on 29^th June ‘08.

We were received at the station by a guide along with a team of cooks and a luxury bus. All were accommodated in a hotel on sharing basis. Next day morning, after a cup of coffee, we left for Gorakhnath temple darshan. By 10.30 hrs we proceeded towards Sonali-Nepal border and after entering Nepal, we were lodged at Hotel Manasarover. We were served breakfast, lunch and tea enroute by the organizers.

On 01-07-08 we were taken by bus to Lumbini, the birth place of Buddha for sight seeing. It is situated 250km south-west of Kathmandu. This place is the apostle of peace, compassion and non-violence. This is a holy site, where there are remnants of monasteries and chaithyas built over the centuries following Buddha’s birth in 543 BC. We visited Mayadevi temple also. We saw the BODHI tree where Lord Buddha got enlightenment. We left for Kathmandu and reached Hotel Maharaja for night halt.

On 02-07-08 being new moon day, some of us performed “tharpanam” at the hotel room and then left to have darshan of lord Pashupathinath one of the most sacred Hindu shrines of Shiva in the world. The richly ornamented pagoda houses the sacred religious pilgrims and sadhus who travel all the way from remote areas of India to visit this temple. Even though these devotees have denounced worldly possessions, each carry an identification card to freely cross over the border between India and Nepal. The Pasupathinath’s existence is indicated to prior 400 AD. Devotees can be seen taking ritual dip in the holy Baghmathi River flowing beside the temple, also a world heritage site. A sight seeing was arranged by bus and we all visited Kal Bhairab Temple, Badrakali temple, and Dakshina kali temple, where devotees were seen offering “rum” being poured into the mouth of the presiding deity. We had the blessing of KUMARI--a 10-11 year old girl who is worshipped by the natives as the living goddess of Nepal. We also visited a 17^th century Radhakrishna temple where Ramayana and Mahabharata are engraved on the rock wall of the temple. In the evening we had been to the Pasupathinath temple to witness aarthi performed on the banks of Baghmathi River. It was a sight worth seeing. It is like the one performed on the banks of river Ganga at Haridwar.

On 03-07-08 morning abhishekam to Lord Pashupathinath was performed after sankalpam. Chanting of Rudram, Chamakam were done by the pandits at the temple and all of us took part having a good darshan of Lord Pashupathinath again. During sight seeing thereafter we went to Durbar square. This is a complex of palaces, country-yard and temples built between 12^th and 18^th centuries by Malla kings of Kathmandu. Boudhanath Stupa, the largest stupa in the valley looms 36 m high and presents one of the most fascinating specimens of stupa design. It is also known as “Khasti”. There are more than 45 Buddhist monasteries in the area. Many have schools that teach young monks. We visited “Aarthi Matha” temple climbing 108 steps from where we had an exotic full view of Nepal. The Chinese border is about 130 km from this place. We had the glimpse of Bhimsen stupa and Rani Pokhri from the bus. We also visited Bhavani temple which is open only for three days in a year viz, Durgashtami, Mahanavami and Vijayadasami. We also visited Budhanilkantha temple also known as Jalnarayan which is situated below Shivpuri hills at the northern end of valley. The hub of the temple complex is a pond in which lies a great stone figure of lord Vishnu reclining on the coils of the cosmic serpent. It is also known as Bhuijasi. During the three days at Kathmandu, local purchases were also done. We saw rudhraksha tree at the hotel premises. We left for Pokhra and reached by about 22.30 hours for night halt at Lumbini resort, Pokhra.

On 04-07-08, a batch of about 22 persons left for Mukhthinath, a Hindu Vishnu shrine situated near river Kandagi, at the height of 13,500 ft above sea level. They all left by plane and landed at “Jonsom” airport at Mukhthinath.

Those who did not go there, left for sight seeing. First we went to ‘Namasthe children house’ which is an orphanage and a home for destitute women. A handsome donation was given to them. A shopping was also arranged in the morning and afternoon. We visited “Varahi Devi Mandir by boat and also an underground cave temple called Guptheswar. We also saw Devi’s falls in the afternoon.

Due to the sudden change of climate at Mukhthinath people there could not return on time. However it was told that they had a good darshan of Sridevi, Bhoodevi sametha Lord Vishnu, also called Mukhthinath. They also visited places in and around the temple. Praying for the safe return of our co passengers we had a bhajan session in the evening at the resort. Lord answered our prayers and the whole group returned in the morning of

07-07-08 safely and were received at the airport. As prasadam, they brought 110 theertha prasadam and distributed to all of us

After reaching resort, all had breakfast we all left to cross Indo-Nepal border. On the way  we visited a temple in which the main deity is “Manakamana Devi—the wish fulfilling goddess” at Mungling by cable car (udan katola). Since the 17^th century, Manakamana Devi has been widely venerated all over Nepal because of the belief that she fulfills all wishes. This temple has a four-tiered pagoda style roof with the entrance facing south-west. The pujari performs daily rituals behind closed doors before allowing the public to enter. Journey to Manakamana can be exhilarating both spiritually and visually. Spectacular views from around the temple area include deep valleys, terraced fields as well as the Manaslu-Himalchuli and the Annapoorna ranges. It is located on top of a ridge overlooking the river valleys of Trisuli and Marshyangdi. This shrine is accessible in about 10 minutes with Nepal’s first cable car at a height of 3.06 km.

We crossed the Nepal border at about 19.00 hours and reached Gorakhpur station at about 1.30 hours in the night. On 08-07-08 by 7.30 hrs we left by train no 2521 Rapthisagar express to Ernakulam and reached safely here on 10-07-08 by about 23.00 hrs.

The group with which we went was very good and cooperative. We had persons to deliver religious lectures and doctors to give us medical advice on various subjects and many people to sing bhajans, chant slokas and this truly made the trip, so spiritual and enjoyable, both physically and mentally. A total harmony was maintained throughout the journey. In all, this trip to Nepal will remain evergreen in our memories. My heart-felt thanks to BHAKTHA SEVA SAMAJ and its organizers.

JAI PASHUPATHINATH: JAI MUKHTHINATH